Say you hop in, press the brake, push the start button, and get nothing. Or a message about the key. Or a click. Push-button Altimas have a few extra players in the starting game (the fob, the steering lock, the computer that checks both), so a no-start isn't automatically a starter. Let's go in order from cheapest to priciest.
Step 1: Rule out the key fob
- Look for a key warning on the dash. "Key not detected" style messages point at the fob, not the engine.
- Try the spare fob. If the spare starts it, your main fob's battery is the likely problem.
- Replace the fob battery. It's a coin cell and a five-minute job. Nissan's maintenance schedule for the 2020 Altima says to replace it at 18 months (the 2.0-liter turbo schedule says 11,250 miles or 18 months).
- Use the backup start method. Nissan says a fully dead fob needs a special start procedure, and it's in your owner's manual. Read it now so you aren't googling it in a parking lot.
Step 2: Check the 12-volt battery
- Dim dash lights, slow or no cranking, or a rapid clicking usually means a weak battery or a loose, corroded terminal.
- Jump it. If it fires right up, the battery or charging system is your real problem.
- Get it tested. Many parts stores test batteries free. AAA says batteries typically last three to five years, and closer to three in hot climates.
Step 3: The steering lock problem (2009-2010 Altima)
Some 2009-2010 Altimas have an Electronic Steering Column Lock (ESCL) that can malfunction after the car is locked. When it does, the engine won't start. NBC Chicago found 746 NHTSA complaints from drivers stranded by it, and one family faced a nearly $1,000 bill before Nissan agreed to reimburse them.
Nissan's fix, bulletin NTB17-018, swaps the lock for an Electronic Steering Column Box (ESCB) that no longer locks the steering wheel when parked. The anti-theft immobilizer still works. Here are the details.
| What | Details |
|---|---|
| Covered cars | 2009-2010 Altima sedan, Altima Coupe and Altima Hybrid (L32) built in specific 2008-2009 date ranges, plus the 2009-2010 Maxima |
| Cost to you | Free parts and labor at any Nissan dealer |
| Time | About one hour of work |
| Already paid? | Nissan says you can ask for reimbursement through NissanAssist.com with your repair order and proof of payment |
| Warranty on the new part | 12 months or 12,000 miles |
Step 4: The starter
If the fob works, the battery tests good, the dash lights stay bright, and you hear a single click or nothing when you press start, the starter or its circuit is next. A shop should test voltage at the starter before replacing it.
What it costs
| Fix | Estimate | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Key fob battery | A few dollars for the coin cell | DIY, five minutes |
| Steering lock fix, 2009-2010 Altima | $0 at a Nissan dealer | Bulletin NTB17-018, eligible VINs |
| Starter, all Altima years | $570-$758 (RepairPal) | Overall estimate |
| Starter, 2019-2025 Altima | $802-$865 (RepairPal) | |
| Starter, 2014-2018 Altima | $561-$874 (RepairPal) | |
| Starter, 2013 Altima | $512-$802 (RepairPal) |
What to ask the shop
- "Did you test the battery and the fob before diagnosing the starter?"
- "Is my 2009-2010 Altima's VIN eligible for the steering lock bulletin?"
- "Is the starter new or remanufactured, and what's the warranty?"
- "What exactly did the scan tool show?" Key and immobilizer codes point away from the starter.
Is it worth fixing?
Yes. Almost every no-start fix on an Altima is cheap compared to the car's value: a fob battery, a battery, a free steering lock swap, or a starter in the high hundreds. The only time to think hard is if the starter is the latest in a long line of expensive repairs on a very high-mile car.
If the battery keeps dying, read our Altima battery vs alternator cost guide. Prices checked October 14, 2026.
